Knead – the award-winning artisan bakery founded by John Hawes and Kris Biggs – has opened its doors in the heart of the city.
Taking over the former Hobbs site, the new bakery brings with it a loyal following, a cracking sausage roll and a level of pastry precision usually reserved for white-tablecloth restaurants.
This is the fourth opening for the Gloucestershire-based brand, which has already earned national acclaim for its handmade bakes, seasonal savouries and knock-out brownies.
But Oxford marks something more than just another postcode – it’s a confident step into expansion territory for two chefs who never set out to build an empire.
“When we started Knead, the plan was basic,” the founders explained. “Make brilliant bread and pastries with real ingredients and real care. That was it. We didn’t have a grand five-year roadmap.”
But when the first site opened in Tetbury in 2020, customers quickly queued up for what the duo were serving: bakes with soul, integrity and flavour in every crumb. “We’ve definitely had ambitious moments, but we’ve also been a bit humbled by how far it’s gone. We’re still just getting warmed up,” they said.
Michelin roots
Before launching Knead, the pair worked together in at the Michelin-starred restaurant in Whatley Manor Hotel & Spa. And while that might seem a world away from a sticky cinnamon bun or a rustic focaccia, those fine-dining instincts continue to shape everything they do.
“Precision and consistency were drilled into us from day one,” they noted. “That hasn’t gone away – it’s just now being applied to pain au chocolat instead of tasting menus.”
The same applies to the experience side of the bakery. The welcome, the atmosphere, the way your flat white arrives still steaming hot but not scalding – none of it is by accident.
“The small details matter. You can’t just rely on a good bake. People come back for how you made them feel.”
What makes Knead stand out is its refusal to stay still. This is not a brand content with cranking out croissants and calling it a day.
“We’ve never wanted to be just a bakery. Knead is about creating places people love to be, products they look forward to, and experiences they remember.”
That philosophy has led to a mobile bakery van (Knead on Wheels), nationwide delivery through Knead by Post, and a series of wildly popular supper clubs at its Elkstone site, featuring themes like Tapas Night and wood-fired BBQs.
The brand’s adaptability has become one of its core strengths. “The food world moves quickly,” added Hawes and Biggs. “We move with it. But always with our quality intact.”
Maintaining standards while scaling is the downfall of many a bakery. But for Knead, every new location comes with carefully built-in safeguards to protect the craft.
“We still bake fresh on site daily. We work closely with local suppliers, adapt our menus seasonally, and make everything by hand.”
From sourcing to prep to training, it’s all about building repeatable systems without losing that handmade feel. “The quality has to be non-negotiable. Otherwise we’re just another chain – and we never want to be that.”
With their roots firmly in the South West, the jump to Oxford might have seemed a bold move. But for the pair, it was a natural next step.
“Oxford’s full of character and curiosity. People here care about food, about provenance, about quality. It’s a great fit for what we do.”
That said, they didn’t want to simply ‘copy and paste’ the concept from Tetbury or Cirencester. “Every community is different. We came to Oxford ready to listen, learn and add to the local flavour – not overwrite it.”
And if the queues are anything to go by, Oxford was clearly ready for what Knead has to offer.
Friendship in the mix
Running a fast-growing food business can test even the best of partnerships. But for the duo, their friendship remains the glue.
“Honesty and respect go a long way. We’ve always been good at pushing each other – without pushing each other’s buttons.”
That shared foundation has helped them divide roles, stay clear-headed during the busy spells, and keep a sense of humour when the ovens act up. “There’s always time for a coffee and a pastry. Even on the tough days.”
The bakes that built the brand
Some pastries carry more than just butter and sugar - they carry stories.
The brioche cinnamon bun, for example, was one of the first things the team perfected. Soft, sticky and full of comfort, it became a cult favourite early on and still serves as a reminder of where it all began.
Then there’s the salted caramel doughnut - the result of countless late-night tweaks in the early days. The team became obsessed with chasing that perfect balance of richness and chew. It paid off: it’s now one of their bestsellers.
But perhaps nothing sums up Knead’s ethos more than the sea salt and rosemary focaccia. Deceptively simple on paper, it demands a practiced hand to get right. “That one’s a marker of our craft,” said the duo.
Having served as head pastry chef at Lords of the Manor Hotel and spent time under the Roux brothers at The Waterside Inn, Biggs brings a high level of rigour to product development at Knead. “We review products quarterly after thorough review of previous sales, with seasonality at the heart of our decisions - as well as always trying to stay ahead of trends and be innovators in our industry,” he said.
That mindset has led to a steady stream of creative, on-brand releases, including heart-shaped pâtisserie for Mother’s Day, Guinness muffins for Father’s Day and the return of the vibrant Paradise Pride pâtisserie for Pride Month.
Still proofing
With the opening of its fourth – and largest – site in Oxford, Knead has revealed bold ambitions to grow to as many as 100 locations over the next 15 to 20 years.
Next up is Tewkesbury (on 16 July) and according to the founders, something “very exciting” is also in the pipeline for later this year. “Can’t say too much yet but watch this space.”
Whatever the next move, Knead isn’t rising by accident. It’s a brand built slowly, deliberately and with no shortcuts. And for other founders dreaming of building something that lasts, there are some standout lessons in their journey:
How to build a bakery brand
Start with a strong why: “Don’t do it for hype. Do it because you care deeply about what you’re making and who you’re making it for. We launched with one goal: bake really, really well.”
Bring your background with you: “You can scale quality if you’re disciplined – but you need structure, training and a refusal to cut corners. Where you’ve come from shapes where you can go.”
Never sacrifice your standards: “Growth is great – but not if it costs you flavour or integrity. Set your line and don’t cross it.”
Let the customer guide you: “We listen all the time. Their feedback shapes everything – from new products to where we open next. They’ll tell you what they want – even if they don’t say it outright.”
Keep the fun alive: “It’s a lot of work, but if you lose the joy, the bakes suffer. People come back for great bakes. But they also come back because they feel something. That matters.”
